The French Market Maven

Wednesdays and Saturdays with President Wilson

2012-01-30T01:52:00.000+01:00

There are some markets I visit but rarely shop from, some markets I go to because they're convenient (just up - or down - the street from where we live) and then there are those I'm willing to get on the metro for (with my cart no less). The Marché President Wilson is just one of those markets.

Into the New Year

2012-01-10T22:01:00.003+01:00


The Tuilleries on January 9, 2012 - notice the lack of heavy coats... or snow

Winter. It's here. Well, it's supposed to be though I've not seem much sign of it in Paris. The temperature has steadily remained in the high 40's low 50's, and based upon the produce available most everywhere, you'd think we were in a summer cold snap.

Marché Maubert and a Turducken Tale

2011-12-08T23:54:00.001+01:00

The holidays for an ex-pat are a confusing time of year. Not only do you miss family and friends who are miles and several time zones away, you also long for some familiar element or essential ingredient that's simply not available where you happen to be celebrating. It's doubly so if one also happens to be Franco-American (or Italian/Dutch/Asian/Hindi/whatever - American) with one foot in each country.

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Abundant Fall Chantrelles make for Great Omelettes

2011-11-01T00:20:00.000+01:00

The brilliant, golden Girolles are unmistakable in the market place

Fall back in California is marked by the arrival of pumpkins at the local farmers markets. One of the first clues that fall has indeed arrived in Paris is the appearance of Girolles (what we English speakers call Chantrelles) in the marchées. Oh sure, there have been plenty of Lithuanian, Russian and Polish Girolles up till now, but it is the arrival of the FRENCH, brilliant orange, Girolle that marks the change of season.

A golden brown exterior with a soft, gooey interior is exactly what makes a great omlette

Which brings me to Omelettes. There is really nothing that highlights the subtle, meaty, earthy, nutty flavor of Girolles like an omelette. Simple! You say... not so fast. There is a world of difference between an old school French omelette and what passes for an omelette these days. I should know, my mother was "Janine the Omelette Queen"!
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Biarritz: Three days (and nights)

2011-10-21T00:28:00.000+02:00

Bayonne ham, assorted meats, puree de piment d'Espelette and Sangrilla make a fine late lunch

It is a quick trip to the South West coast of France, an easy escape from Paris when you’ve had your fill of the weather, the pavement or the ongoing, gloomy economic news. A friend and I hopped aboard the TGV (train of great speed) from Montparnasse at 10am; by 3:15pm we were sitting down to a late lunch with an ocean breeze and ringside view of the Bay of Biscay.

The lighthouse and palatial Hotel built by Napolean 3 and Eugenie in the distance.

Easy Pie Crust Recipe and Where Did September Go?

2011-09-24T06:00:00.001+02:00

Fall plums cut in half then drizzled with caramelized vanilla sugar, butter & lemon juice.

The trees are turning colors, going from lush green to shades of brown and rust - very dramatic indeed against the bright blue skies we've been enjoying lately. Paris is once again full of people, a not so gradual change from August when the streets were empty, lingering in the park or on a cafe terrace was a solitary activity and riding a Velib across town didn't feel like taking your life in your hands.

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Marché 'BIO' Raspail & Tomato Tarte

2011-08-30T12:22:00.000+02:00

Tomato, Caramelized Onion and Goat Cheese Tarte Tatin

A few weeks ago there was a photo in the New York Times of the most amazing looking Tomato Tarte. Naturally, the only reasonable thing to do was drop everything and seek out heirloom cherry tomatoes (known in France, though not to me, as 'cocktail tomatoes'). It happened to be Sunday, and there is no better place to search for these multi colored, generally tasty, very sweet beauties than the Marché 'Bio' Raspail.


Sundays in August are practically spacious at Marché Raspail!

When Community Goes Global

2011-08-27T17:27:00.000+02:00

I was all set to post about an organic farmer's market in Paris, heirloom tomatoes and a scrumptious Tomato Tatin recipe. But then one of my favorite blogs, Eating Rules, 'pinged' my inbox and everything changed.

Heirloom Tomato Tatin

Marchés of Paris by Days of the Week: The Short List

2011-08-20T14:35:00.008+02:00

Marché "Bio" Raspail

Living in Paris (where there are over 80 roving and permanent markets) with it's 'embarrassment of riches' when it comes to farmer's markets, I still tend to return to the same 5 or 6 out of habit and/or convenience... which isn’t exactly the point, now is it? But after giving it some thought, it became clear I do that because I know which market is where on what day.
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Lobster on the Coast of Maine

2011-08-12T16:40:00.003+02:00

Life has a way of being serendipitous when you least expect it.

View of the harbor at low tide off Langodon Road

While on the East Coast for a 'college tour', my two daughters and I zigged off course (exchanging a college 'rendez-vous' for 4 nights on the coast of Maine). We did, in fact, make a couple of accidental discoveries - acquiring, for starters, a particular obsession that we were not at all in search of.

Goose Rocks Beach, Maine

What we were in pursuit of was a few relaxing days by the shore.

Perfectly cooked, straight off the grill. No bibs needed, thank you.

What we found was lobster. Lots and lots of delicious lobster.
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The Heel of the Boot, Italy

2011-06-19T06:00:00.001+02:00

I have always had a secret crush on Italy. Not Florence or Rome mind you, but rather the Italy of olive tree covered rolling hillsides and crystal clear, turquoise seas along an undeveloped coastline. Someplace where friendly tratorias serve fish right out of the sea and salads straight from the local campagna. Where the vino bianco is as local as the clientele, and no one, but no one, speaks decent English... if any at all. Hah! You say. Dream on. Well, guess what?

The plates disappeared as fast as the three guys shucking could shuck.

Paradise can be found just north of Gallipoli in the Gulf of Taranto on the Ionian Sea


Heading to lunch - this busy spot has it's own small fishing boat and offers only the daily catch

Wild Asparagus & Morels on May Day

2011-05-03T04:00:00.007+02:00

It's been a wild month. To California (lots of heavy lifting and oodles of family there) then home to Paris for a whole new round of packing and moving as my daughter and I prepare to return to the building of my childhood on Rue des Entrepreneurs. The contractor is nearly done, so I'm very optimistic. Okay, so I'm holding my breath just a tiny bit.

Wild Asparagus, 2 bunches for 12 Euros, enough for 5 people

In my absence, not only did the days grow MUCH longer, but Spring arrived in Paris and WOW! is it ever reflected at the markets. My trusty neighborhood marché, Grenelle, was busier than I'd seen it in months, (guess Parisians don't enjoy shopping outdoors in cold weather either) there were rolling cart traffic jams and long, long lines. So, when I noticed no line at my regular wild mushroom guy, along with wild asparagus and one last little basket of Morels - did I hesitate? Non, pas moi.

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Marche d'Aligre and a Mango Salsa recipe

2011-04-03T04:09:00.002+02:00

There are some markets that call to your spirit like a wild jungle beat - Marche d'Aligre is one such place. Situated in the lively 12th arrondisement, it is one of the oldest markets in Paris. My love affair with this market and it's neighborhood began last summer. It's high time I shared it with you...

Approaching the Marché via the Rue d'Aligre

Poached Rhubarb with Mint Sugar

2011-03-28T15:28:00.001+02:00

My dear friend Susan from Carmel Valley is in Paris for a few weeks which presents a terrific opportunity to do a lot of walking, re-visiting some great spots in Paris as well as exploring new places we are curious to discover. Susan has been here many times, so mercifully, these re-visits don't include the usual suspects (Louvre, Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame, etc) which also means we get to skip those long lines that have returned to Paris along with the marvelous Spring weather.

Poached Rhubarb with Mint Sugar and that other thing...

Talking Susan into going to one of my favorite markets in the 12th was easy, as was roaming the side streets in this interesting and artisanal neighborhood.

Inside La Gazzetta at lunch, before the crowds arrived

Barcelona - Day 2

2011-03-20T18:48:00.000+01:00

If someone were to ask, I would say that the most important piece of advise for anyone traveling to Barcelona is: DO NOT eat breakfast at your hotel. Beat it out of there, head to the nearest covered mercado and slide onto a stool at the busiest cafe you can find.

Coffee in process at the Universal

Barcelona by the Sea

2011-03-14T04:09:00.000+01:00

It's been a busy month. A very busy month. Walls coming down, tile going up. Time spent in trains, planes and yes, automobiles. Lots of miles, lots of photos, but no writing. I was just too busy using my left hand to pick up my fork. Especially in Barcelona, Spain.

Stuffed roast peppers, chicken empanada and tomato rubbed bread

Barcelona is a confused city. I was there about 15 years ago, before the post Olympics 'Renaissance' (ie: the demolition of entire older neighborhoods) and the building of high-rise, pastel colored, apartment complexes began.

Many of these projects have been abandoned mid construction and so they sit, fenced, with their cranes inactive, waiting for the economy to improve. Historic neighborhoods have been impacted as well; their lively streets scarred by abandoned, yet still fabulous buildings with the ground and first floor windows all bricked up.

The upper floor windows gape, randomly open, giving a view into crumbling ceilings while pigeons fly happily in an out. It is odd indeed, yet the spirit of the people is lively and the food remains glorious.

A market stand featuring only pork products

Live (Crab) from Monterey

2011-02-07T09:49:00.002+01:00

Returning to the Monterey Peninsula is a mixed blessing. Usually, I'm going back for some sort of work that involves lots of heavy lifting at our family house in Carmel by the Sea, the charming town where I was born and raised. When traveling there during an 'R' month, I'm happily leaving oysters behind in Paris to find live Dungeness crab straight off the day boat in Moss Landing.


Fresh crab on a bed of paparadelle pasta & zucchini ribbons with yellow curry sauce

Mad for Eggs - Mayonnaise

2011-01-23T21:05:00.003+01:00

I have two women friends who are simply mad for Oeufs Mayonnaise... a dish I never much paid attention to since my year in French boarding school where it was often featured as the entrée... plainly put: I just didn't get it. Lately I've taken a different view of the venerable dish. As Julia (yes, that Julia) puts it "this makes a nice little something with which to start a meal" she found that it seems to make everything more festive.

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Arugula and Speck - Pasta for a Rainy Day

2011-01-12T16:43:00.006+01:00


Simple, quick and delicious

When an Italian produce vendor at my Sunday market suggested trying his favorite pasta dish using arugula as the main ingredient, it was hard to resist. That was last winter. Since then, this dish has become a family favorite and it couldn't be simpler. It's also what I whipped up today when my daughter and her two hungry friends came home, in the rain, for lunch.

Oysters... I mean Huitres

2011-01-02T22:56:00.002+01:00

Fines de Claires #4

Some people don't much care about the "R" month rule, but for me, oyster season begins mid October and lasts until March.

By the time the New Year arrives there are oysters everywhere in Paris; cafes serve them, fish mongers sell them and the growers have arrived in full force at the farmers markets. Fines de Claires, Belons, Creuses and Omahas (just to name a few) are available in about 5 sizes for you enjoy out or to take home either opened on little tin platters or unopened if you know how. With my oyster loving family in town, we decided to dive into the 'open it yourself' mode committing to two small wooden crates of about 4 dozen each which I stored on my snowy terrace.

Now (about 100 oysters later) seems like an excellent time to give a little lesson on how to crack these hard to get at delicacies. After all, by my count there are still 3 good months of oyster eating ahead of us.

Truffle Scrambled Eggs

2010-12-28T00:30:00.003+01:00

All this internet chit-chat about murder, theft and French truffles has made me hungry for one of my favorite winter dishes. Just thinking about these creamy scrambled eggs infused with truffle makes my toes curl with happiness.

Nothing says New Years Day brunch like Truffle scrambled eggs and Champagne

5 Terrific (mostly FREE) things to do in Paris between Now and New Years

2010-12-20T18:00:00.036+01:00

Christmas in Paris. Has a certain ring, doesn't it? Visions of twinkling lights, romantic walks, gently falling snow and delicious meals fill your mind... and then what?

Here is a short list of things I like to do during the holiday season. Nothing on this list takes all day or will break the bank. You will however, feel like an insider and look like a local.

David's Banana Cake with Mocha Frosting

2010-12-12T22:45:00.000+01:00

I love the internet. The other night a friend called me from Cincinnati...

"Hey! You going to that book signing at La Cuisine Paris?"

"What book signing" I asked.

"The one with David Leibowitz and Alexander Lobrano... jeez."

So, I went. After all, Christmas is around the corner and autographed books make such great gifts.

Lavender for Christmas

2010-12-09T16:22:00.001+01:00

Every winter Paris sprouts entire villages of small cabins (meant to look like quaint chalets) filled with all sorts of stuff destined to become someones gift under the tree. There are hot wine vendors to fend off the cold (and presumably any purchasing inhibitions one might have) who also serve up the 13 traditional Christmas desserts from Provence for the curious. There is also more stuff from China than you can shake a stick at. I generally avoid these sorts of markets, though I must admit that the lights and colors do have a certain charm from a distance.

Seafood Chowder

2010-12-05T06:30:00.021+01:00

Cold weather and snow have arrived in Paris. All I can think about is comforting foods that fill my kitchen with good smells, warm you up from head to toe and don’t take all day to make. Sure, France is full of satisfying dishes that take hours of simmering on the stove, and I like some of them a lot, but that’s not what I have in mind.

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Gratitude and Thanks

2010-11-25T13:10:00.003+01:00

last year's Parisian turkey

Millions of people in America (and around the world) are celebrating Thanksgiving today. Some in their homes, some with family, others in shelters and soup kitchens. I am in Paris. My daughter is at school, there is no holiday to celebrate and no turkey roasting in the oven. We will gather with friends on Sunday to celebrate this one day of the whole year when loved ones join together and take a moment to think about all they have to be grateful for.

The Secondhand Bookseller on the Quai de Conti

2010-11-09T01:57:00.001+01:00

Last Christmas I received one of the best presents of my life from my youngest daughter: a Larousse Gastronomique from 1938.

Late Harvest Tomato Soup

2010-10-25T06:25:00.002+02:00

Carmel by the Sea is my home town, it sits between the ocean and fertile valleys where vintners, farmers and equestrians share the sunshine. Everytime I return home, I'm impressed all over again by the majesty and sheer beauty of this place Steinbeck called The Pastures of Heaven.

Most of my friends here are food obsessed... and it's no small wonder given the year round abundance and variety available to anyone with a hankering to garden, forage and/or trade.
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Pépe's Marché Popincourt

2010-10-10T14:17:00.004+02:00

It has been years since I've retraced the steps, once so familiar with my grandfather, down the Rue Oberkampf to the market where he did his shopping. So it was with great anticipation that I made a pilgrimage to the 11th arrondissement where my love of the marché and seasonal eating began.

Walking the Rue Oberkamf was, well, if not exactly surprising, just a little shocking since my memories of that street, and what I saw, were literally worlds apart

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'Antiques & Ham' on Impressionist Island

2010-09-30T16:47:00.001+02:00

A tradition since the middle ages, this foire (fair) has spent the last 600 years morphing into the huge, week long event that happens twice a year on the Island of Chatou (also known as Impressionnist Island) outside of Paris.

What began as an annual pre-Christmas pork fair in front of Notre Dame, has turned into one of the largest, most well attended, antique flea markets in France.
For the last 40 years, more than 800 vendors have set up shop for a full week on a wedge of land in the middle of the Seine. Some have permanent stores in other villages, others are part of the 'Brocantes' circuit operating across France.

Paris XIeme - Where It All Began

2010-09-25T12:13:00.001+02:00

My grandfather, Leon Briet, lived in the 11th Arrondissement of Paris in a large, rambling apartment. This was the same apartment in which my mother and her two brothers grew up. He and my grandmother, Marie, had lived there since shortly after they were married at the end of WWI. It was a large flat with an unusually large kitchen; lots of cooking took place in that kitchen not to mention the eating and laughing in the dining room across the hall.

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Tick Tock, Tick Tock

2010-09-01T18:42:00.002+02:00

It's hard for me to believe that four months have passed since my last post, well, it has been a very busy four months and there was the 'computer incident', but that's all behind me now. In that action packed time, there has been a 'plan B' holiday to Tuscany due to the Icelandic Volcano (remember THAT?).

Marché at the Plaza Athénée, Paris 8eme

2010-04-13T23:53:00.002+02:00

'Le tout Paris' came out to see the displays and to chat with the farmers and producers who provision Alain Ducasse at the Hotel Plaza Athénée. Okay. Well, maybe not 'le tout Paris' but certainly many of the food obsessed were there.

Rialto Market, Venice - Italy

2010-04-10T20:41:00.002+02:00

For over a week, I have been trying to get to Venice for lunch and a visit to the farmers market. This was a plan I'd cooked up some months ago, and while it does seem a bit over the top, I was determined. Easy Jet and Mother Nature had other plans however, so it took several false starts before actually set foot on the Rialto where everything was in full swing at 9:15am.

Marché St. Eustache-les-Halles

2010-04-06T17:09:00.004+02:00

Tucked in the shadows of the ancient and impressive Eglise St. Eustache (it's considered one of the most beautiful religious monuments of Paris) sits this tiny marché at the heart of the oldest, and most historic neighborhood of Paris.

Marché Saxe-Breteuil , Paris 7eme

2010-03-30T20:25:00.000+02:00

How could you not love an outdoor market with the Eiffel Tower as a mascot?

Located in the well-heeled 7th Arrondissement, surrounded by beautiful Haussmanian buildings, the Saxe-Breteuil market is well known for it’s excellent quality. Growers, producers, fish mongers, bakers and florists travel from as far away as Brittany, Normandy and the Limousin to sell their wares.

It's Another World

2010-03-24T02:01:00.000+01:00

For the past three weeks, I have been in California. More precisely, Carmel by the Sea - the gateway to Big Sur. It's a quaint little town sprung from a 1920's artist colony on the beautiful and wild coast of the Monterey Peninsula. Carmel is my home town.

For those of you who have never been, Carmel proper has no street numbers, no street lights, and other than ‘down town’, no sidewalks. Giving directions sounds something like this: “Go west on Ocean Avenue, then left on San Carlos, down 2 blocks to the 3rd house from the corner, we’re the little cottage with the green gate across the street from the house called ‘Jay’s Roost’ - can’t miss it!’

The Apples of Nouveu Verger

2010-02-23T01:07:00.001+01:00

The line is long and her stand overflows with apples, pears and a variety of products lovingly handmade at homes. The 'Apple Lady', Eveleine, is actually quite shy and blushes when spoken to... unless she is being asked for advise about which apple is best for a tarte, or tatin, apple sauce or just plain eating.

15 Vendors Likely To Be At A French Market

2010-02-19T18:00:00.005+01:00

Not all markets are created equal. Some are more interesting than others, some more Organic, more ethnic or more 'flea market' than food. There are, however, certain types of vendors you can count on at most every market from the center of Paris to the little square of the teeniest village in France. This list explains the 15 vendors you are sure to find at most markets - though not in any particular order.

1) The Cheese Vendor: Traditionally, there were some 300 regional cheeses made in France. Now the number is well over 1000. Many are protected by the AOC designation (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) meaning that they have a specific French geographical origin. (This tradition BTW, dates back to the 15th century and began with Roquefort cheese) Some cheese stands are exclusively French, while others have branched out to Italian and English. Keep your eyes open for the small producers too. These fellows generally feature one type of cheese - say goat - made from the milk of their own flock. There is plenty to choose from, you can ask for a taste, so don't be shy!

Good to know: Free wifi in Paris

2010-02-07T12:40:00.006+01:00

France is a country that prides itself on relationship building over a four course meal and regional wines.

While the French may spend more time eating than any other nation on the planet, they also recognize the value of free internet access for all.

Marché Grenelle and a Roast Chicken

2010-02-04T15:07:00.001+01:00

The Marché Grenelle is one of the biggest of Parisian markets. It also happens to be a few blocks up the street from my home. Every Sunday and Wednesday, with red cart in tow, I make my way to the market without fail - rain, shine or snow!

The stands sit protected from the weather under the metro tracks between La Motte Piquet Grenelle and Dupleix, making it the perfect place to shop in any weather.

Paris Markets by Arrondissements

2010-01-29T00:50:00.001+01:00

I was wrong! There are not 65 markets in 18 arrondissements, nope. There are 65 outdoor markets and 13 covered markets in 20 arrondissements! That isn't even counting the multiple 'Puces' (antique markets) bird, flower or old book and paper markets. Amazing what a little digging can uncover. I even found this nifty map of Paris with every market on it's teeny illegible streets. Cool. This should keep me busy for the next year, or two!

Things I've Been Eating Lately - Thursday, Jan. 28

2010-01-29T00:41:00.004+01:00

Woman does not live by market maven-ing alone, that being said, today was a great food day! It all started with a trip to Kunitoraya on the Rue Saint Anne. The place is tiny and if you don't get there early, like we did, guaranteed there will be a line.

Winter in Paris

2010-01-19T10:45:00.002+01:00

It is 7:30 am and still the sun has not risen. Winter in Paris is cold and dark. Yet out there in the obscurity, there are farmers and merchants busy setting up their stalls for the discerning and hungry people who will soon descend upon the fruits, vegetables, fish, chicken and cheese, beautifully laid out for sale.

While the dead of winter is hardly the romantic, visually riotous, delicious time to be leasurly wandering outdoor markets in search of dinner (or lunch) it is a good time to see what Parisians like to eat. People are bundled up and in a hurry to get their shopping done... none of the lingering of the summer months. Still, there is so much choice - who knew winter vegetables could be so varied and so lush?

The choice of potatoes (not to mention oysters) is staggering, and people buy! If you are late in arriving, or a dawdler (like me) 1:30 comes along and half the merchants are packing up what little remains of their once full to the brim stands.

Each market is different, representing the taste of the surrounding neighborhood and it's inhabitants. There are stands with hand made breads, artisanal cheeses from small farms and hot prepared foods from around the world.

So begins an adventure in Paris, exploring the 65 markets in 18 arrondissements. From the typically parisian to the ethnic neighborhoods, the weekly open air and the more permanent covered markets to the shopping streets, Paris is filled with food... glorious food!